PedalBoard

Started building myself a pedalboard.

Thought about what I wanted in a pedalboard.

• Room to grow
• Velcro to attach pedals
• Place under board to put the power and run wires
• Easy to add power
• I want to be able to close the pedals in a case like to protect them.
• Handle to carry entire unit

A while back I set my pedals on the floor to determine the size deck I wanted.
That size ended up being 24"X14"

Found some 3/4 plywood that fit the bill perfectly.
I sat down and drew on that board for a few hours to figure out the size, shape of the slots and holes. A lot of drawing and erasing.

I used a ruler/straight edge to draw the lines. Used a drill to make the round holes. Used a jigsaw for the straight lines.


Cut out the sides, back and front. Bunch of sanding and some green paint.

 Mocked up the power situation. Figured out where I wanted the power strip.



I wanted to able to plug in one power cord.
I took out an outlet out of an old computer. Drew the shape of the hole on the back and used a jigsaw to cut it out.





A friend was teasing me about the old screws I used. I do need to clean them up, but those screws came out or an early 1900's player piano. I thought it a cool add.






Picked up some 15 LBS Velcro from HomedDepot.

I already see updates and things I would like to change. I plan on making another pedalboard. I will sell this one on Craigslist.

I don't think I will build a case for this one. Stay tuned for the next one.







With some pedals. I think it turned out really well. I like the green and black stripes. Depending on how long I have this one,  I might paint some designs on the sides.

Tell me what you think.

Yamaha G100-112 Repair

We were on the lookout for another Guitar amp that has a clean tone. Well truth be told, Im ALWAYS looking for a guitar amp in my budget that has a better tone.

We found this Yamaha G100-112 first series. This was probably made around 1980. Yamaha came out with a Series II and a III version of this amp. The II series looks a little different, the III looks a lot different on the outside.

This particular amp needed some work.
I had just purchased Fender that also needs work, so I talked my Father into buying this Yamaha in the hopes I could repair it for him.

It was/is a very clean looking amp. The guy that had it before us really took care of it. Talking to him, he really did not want to sell it. It was not working right and the estimate to repair the amp was more than he wanted to pay. He decided to sell it.

What's wrong with you you ask?

1. It was not amplifying the sound like it should, you had to turn it all the way up
2. loud Popping and crackling noises
3. The pots are real stiff
4. One of the knobs will not stay on
5. Minor - some very small nicks in the outside.

I have very little experience in repairing guitar amps. Only very simple stuff like cleaning pots (I know how to do the dishes, but not that kind of pots). I actually hope to repair some old radios and CB radios in the future.

Old Flux everywhere

I tested the amp and sure enough it was having those issues.
So, go with what you know. The pots are stiff, so clean the pots and see what happens. I've been in contact with the Seller Via Text Messaging. The seller is very upfront and honest.

Pulled the amp out of the cabinet, and noticed it is very dirty. There is old flux everywhere.
I went ahead and sprayed some contact cleaner in the holes on the pots and worked them a LOT. I spent over an hour cleaning the pots  until they move very freely.
Put it back together and tried it out. The popping was less, but still there was some crackling.

wire damage, maybe done with pliers.

Knowing the inside was in a dire need to be cleaned, I grabbed some isopropyl alcohol and an old tooth brush and went to town. Once I got some of that old flux off, I noticed some of the soldering did not look like it was making good contact anymore. I also noticed a few wires that the insulation is nicked off. Im not sure what causes damage like that. See the picture to know what Im talking about. I unsoldered that wire, cut the end off, and soldered it back on.

The back of the PA Board cleaned up.

I do not recommend the following! but on the same aspect, Im on a journey to learn more. 

Who knows maybe someday someone will want me to fix their amp. The more you learn the better you will be.

I started testing components with the new tester I bought LCR-T4 tester. 

I also wanted to clean the glue off that was all over the place. I had read that some glues becomes conductive when it gets old, and could cause a shorts.

Cracked Input jack housing

In the mean time, I was still googling around and found this Forum Solid State Guitar Amplifiers

First I want to say the people on that forum are AWESOME! They love fixing Solid State Amplifiers, HEY just what I want to get into and learn as a hobby. A Win Win for me!

Glue and Flux everywhere.

Scraped the glue off.

See all the Gunk on these Diode Leads?
That stuff was on all the components.

Yup, they told me the errors in ways of striping these boards apart. I agree. I do not plan on stripping the next ones, only if then really have a problem and need it. But again, Im in learning mode and want to see everything.

But while striping the boards and testing the components I found a bad transistor, and a cracked input jack. Plus all the bunked up parts.

After isopropyl alcohol cleaning

I could not find the right transistor to buy, they do not make them anymore officially. I saw some off brands, but also read some bad reviews from people buying those. I did not want to take a chance. I was on a hunt to find a replacement.

Parts back on the DC Board

 One of the guys on the forum looked at the wiring schematic and noticed that 2 of those JFET transistors really were not needed. That I could just take the pair out.
I just could not understand why you could take out 2 transistors that were put there by the factory. SO I found a so called "replacement" transistors. I put them in and put the amp back together.

I made sure to use my Dim Bulb Tester when I turned the amp back on after working on it. This will protect the components by detecting any shorts that I may have inadvertently added. Happy to report no shorts were detected.

The popping noise was worse than before.
Figured I would just take those transistors out and see what would happen. Like Enzo from the Forum said in the first place.
low in-behold it works, and it is Amplified like it should be! Of course Enzo knew it would, but the inexperienced is just that.

BA Board

Cleaned BA Board

BA Board back together

HEY! Im learning and excited to tear into the next one.





What's the deal with this knob!

On further inspection - this pot is different than the other pots. Someone replaced this pot with one that probably had a long shaft and then just cut it off. The shaft is also little thicker.

I was texting the previous owner, because he seemed interested in if I could get it repaired and what I found. Very nice guy.

He told me when he took it in to get the estimate, the amp originally would not work at all when you messed with that pot. So I guess the tech, just replaced the pot with one he had to rule it out for further diagnoses. The tech probably discovered it needed a lot more time to diagnose and clean. I did spend a lot of hours on this amp cleaning and checking.

I did not search for a new pot to buy, figured I would just fix this one. I taped around the pot to protect the cabinet. Took a hacksaw blade and cut a slot. After getting the slot cut in, I took a small file around the shaft to decrease the diameter. Worked it until the knob fit on snug.

Showing how the heat sink fits between the transistors
and the circuitboard. That is really cool idea to get the
transistors further away from the circuitboard.

As for the nicks - I just used some wood glue and tape to hold stuff where I wanted it until the glue dried.


Took a sharpie and colored it black.







Why even bother with such small nicks and holes?
Sure it will make it look a little better, but the purpose of the covering is to protect the wood from moisture.

Hopefully the glue will keep out moisture for a little longer until it needs to be re-applied.


I put some pictures of my progress. Got any questions - just ask.

Over all Yamaha made a fantastic amp. I put some pictures below of how thick the plywood they used for the front. It sounds amazing!

If your interested in repairing SS Amps, check out that forum at ssguitar.com

Heavy duty, looks like the front is an Inch thick

Just cleaning behind the grill and looking

Can't wait to get to this one!

Volume Pedal - Build

Guitar Volume Pedal - I was looking for easy projects to get back into soldering and electronic components. Plus a great Christmas gift.

Parts List

• 2 Audio 1/4" female jacks (purchased on Amazon)
• 1 Potentiometer 100K Ohm (purchased on Amazon) - (I plan on experimenting with this value)
• 1 Capacitor 100kpF (I had one)
• Hinge
• Wire
• Wood
• She kind of cording

I searched on the internet and found a few different pedal builds. I picked one I thought would be pretty easy. After building this one I have a lot of improvements. I will document the next build as well so you will see the differences. 

So, cut out the pieces, glued and nailed them together. The next build I will document the dimensions. Im using 1/2" plywood, and the dimensions I found online were for 1/4" hard board. So the walls on mine are thick, and crazy strong. It is an over kill.

Since it is so thick I needed to cut out the places where I wanted the 1/4" audio jacks. I used a hole saw, and cut down most of the way. That left a raised part on the inside. I drilled the center hole so that the jack would slip in. The hole was not deep enough for the jack to come to the other end and be able to put a nut on it. I used a spade but, drilled a little, checked it, drilled some more and checked it until I liked how much the jack stuck out the other side.

I tried cutting gears, but that proved to be a pain. I might design some gears and print them out on the 3D printer at the library next time.

I made a spool to fit on the potentiometer (Pot). I have a piece of round stock in the garage. I cut a sliver and drilled a hole in the middle to slip over the pot.

I found a bracket to mount the pot too. Any "L" bracket will work. I had to drill a hole out on this bracket and notch it for the tab on the pot that keeps it from spinning in the hole.

I mounted the pot and placed the bracket where I wanted to, then screwed it in. 

pot mounted with spool

Assembled wood parts, sanded and started primer and painting.

Once I got the base coat of paint down, I started getting the components ready to be installed.

Circuit work

1. Used a multimeter to check the pot to know what will be attached to which terminal
2. Cut all the lengths of wires needed. I used different colors to help me keep it straight.
• Yellow - jack tips
• Black - jack rings
• Purple - capacitor
3.  Solder tined all the ends of the wires, jacks, pot, and capacitor. 
4. Soldered the wires to the jacks
• made sure I put the right wires on each jack. mine was easy, the shorter black and yellow to one jack and the long ones on the other jack



both jack rings to same post on pot
jacks tip, and capacitor is split between the other 2 posts

• Capacitors have a shielded side, but it does not matter much in an inclosure like this, but still I put the wire on the sided I wanted it to be on.
5. installed the jacks in the housing
6. Soldered the ends of the wires to the pot
• verified after each solder to make sure it was correct and continuity.
7. Glued the capacitor down with a dab of wood glue.

capacitor glued down

Onto the mechanical portion - the cord needs to be connected to the under side of one side of the pedal, ran through a hold in the body. looped around the pot spool, then down to the other end and connected to the other under side of the pedal.

picture of the bolt and the change of direction of the cord.

I drilled holds in the top of the base. Attached the pedal to the base, and used an awl to mark the pedal where I wanted to connect the cording. Detached the pedal, and attached the cording. On the bottom end I drilled a hole in the side of the housing and put a bolt all the way through so that the cord change direction and will be able to route a straight path to the pot.

You need a way to keep tension on the cord, but not too much. You can use a rubber band or a spring.

One of the versions of this mechanism I cut grove in the spool to keep the cording from splitting off. but I was also experimenting with different ways to attached the 2 ends off the cord. I used too much pressure and ruined that spool.

Worked on a bottom cover.

I found the cord would slip off the spool, so I sanded the center with a rotary tool. First time I did it, I took too much off, so had to make another spool again. In all I created 5 spools until I was happy with one. By sanding the center it leaves a lip on the outside that helps to keep the cord from sliding of the sides.

To see more explanation on the outside paint click here

Who knows maybe I will try making a Wah-Wah pedal sometime.