PedalBoard

Started building myself a pedalboard.

Thought about what I wanted in a pedalboard.

• Room to grow
• Velcro to attach pedals
• Place under board to put the power and run wires
• Easy to add power
• I want to be able to close the pedals in a case like to protect them.
• Handle to carry entire unit

A while back I set my pedals on the floor to determine the size deck I wanted.
That size ended up being 24"X14"

Found some 3/4 plywood that fit the bill perfectly.
I sat down and drew on that board for a few hours to figure out the size, shape of the slots and holes. A lot of drawing and erasing.

I used a ruler/straight edge to draw the lines. Used a drill to make the round holes. Used a jigsaw for the straight lines.


Cut out the sides, back and front. Bunch of sanding and some green paint.

 Mocked up the power situation. Figured out where I wanted the power strip.



I wanted to able to plug in one power cord.
I took out an outlet out of an old computer. Drew the shape of the hole on the back and used a jigsaw to cut it out.





A friend was teasing me about the old screws I used. I do need to clean them up, but those screws came out or an early 1900's player piano. I thought it a cool add.






Picked up some 15 LBS Velcro from HomedDepot.

I already see updates and things I would like to change. I plan on making another pedalboard. I will sell this one on Craigslist.

I don't think I will build a case for this one. Stay tuned for the next one.







With some pedals. I think it turned out really well. I like the green and black stripes. Depending on how long I have this one,  I might paint some designs on the sides.

Tell me what you think.

Walkway 5/12

Worked some on the old walkway. Knocked out a bunch more while the weather has been nice.

Link to Last time I worked on it.

Walkway

Its been awhile since Ive messed with the walkway.

The weather was nice Yesterday, so added a little bit to it. I probably should have ran the weed eater before.

I also took some of the fence down.













So far we have been happy with it.


Link to Last time I worked on it.

Dryer not heating

We have had our dryer a long while. First time having an issue with it.

The other day it stopped drying. Felt inside and it was not getting hot.

Read online and a number of things it could be. I also read where people would replace a bunch of components and still not fix the problem. It is important to diagnose the issue. Sure if you want to replace stuff while your in there go for it, but you should do a little troubleshooting to make sure your also fixing the issue at hand.

Bill has some easy ways to check your components. Check out his video.
https://youtu.be/I25dS6n6O8E

Note: he shows the heating unit after pulling the dryer drum. He may have done that for a better video, or another video, but you do not need to pull the entire dryer apart to check those components.
Search videos on replacing the heating element and you will see what I mean. It is easy to do, just a few screws.




I would like to mention that after you put the new heating element back together you should check to make sure it is not grounded. Its easy to check and might save you time.


Good Luck, it is an easy job. You just need a phillips and a flat head screw driver. Also need a multimeter. The meter Im using was inexpensive.

Circuit Breakers

Our house is getting pretty old. Some of the circuit breakers are original.
I've replaced a few over the years.

This time, the living room lights started to flicker.

I noticed a burning smell from the circuit breaker box. Figured it was time to replace the rest of the breakers.

If you are not sure how to work on Breaker Boxes, get someone to show you. They are easy to work on, and easy to kill yourself.


 

If you have never messed around a circuit breaker box you should get help. Get someone to show you how to do it safely.

Im just sharing some images of the burnt circuit breakers. I replaced the top 5 circuit breakers on the left. I ended up going with thicker breakers and filled the breaker box.

Frames Frames Frames

It has been raining here like crazy the last few weeks.

I finally got some time to build some frames.

Making picture frames sure takes up a lot of time.

I need to figure out how I will will finish them.

Frame Jigs

11X14 Frame

Knowing about what size frames you want to focus on will save you some time and effort.

Example: If you want to make small frames, a big jig will not work well for you.
I started making corner jigs, that would not actually fit together for the size I wanted to make. So I cut them down.





I picked up painting lately. I need to get some paintings on the walls, they are starting to pile up. Frames should also give added protection to them even when they are stored.
I have a few ideas on how to store the paintings until they reach their home. I plan on posting that when I get there.



Ive made frames before, but it is always hard to clamp them together while you fasten them. We have a few of those picture frame corner vise things, but I really don't them.
This jig really gives you something to camp to.




Just take some scrap wood and nail them to some kind of base. You can screw or use regular nails, I have a nail gun. I had some scrap 3/4 plywood to work with. I made sure the boards I used were cut square. Double check, and it will save you frustration down the road.



First I made sure I knew where I wanted the boards to go. I wanted to make sure nothing was in the way of the corner, so I could get my nail gun in there to attach the frame pieces.



Attached one board, then used the framing square to line up and attach the second. Make sure they are square, that is the purpose of this.

I also used wood glue.

Fig 1

You have options with this simple jig. You can clamp to the jig as in  figure 1.

Fig 2

You can use the triangles and clamp diagonally to the corner of the board. Fig 2 shows without the clamp

Make your One! Make Four!

First Frame using this jig

Jig - I need to drill a big hole so the are easy to hang.

Closet Flange Replacement

The Closet Flange was warped, and I tried using a thick wax seal. I cranked down too much on the bolts and broke the flange.

First I need to find out what kind of flange is on there. Is it one that attaches to the outside of the pipe or inside? Was primer used when they put the flange on? I read if they used primer the bond is a lot stronger.
If the flange is the type that slips into the drain pipe; and if primer was used, I may need to buy a 3 inch hole saw. If they did not use primer, I would try cutting a slot and chipping the old flange out.
I also need to look at the wood around the pipe to see how water damaged it is. Do I need to cut up a bunch of the floor and do flooring repairs? I won't know until I take a close look.

Hopefully I only have to go to HomeDepot one time.

I pulled the commode off, found that the flange we have does go around the outside drain pipe and they did use primer.

I stuck a rag down in the pipe to catch anything that might fall in. I cut the old flange off flush with the top of the drain pipe. Measured the inside diameter, and inspected the wood.













I replaced the flooring in most of the house except the restrooms, and kitchen a number of years ago. So I knew what to expect.
They used 2 sheets of particle board. It seems the bottom sheet they cut the hole for the drain pipe closer to the size of the pipe, and the top sheet was a lot bigger.

I scraped a bunch on the bottom board and it seems I can work with that.

Ran up to HomeDepot to picked up a closet flange, and another wax seal. They did not have a flange that you glue to the inside of the pipe, they had a twist-set flange. So I got that.



Looking at the pipe and hole, I decided to put in some more wood so that the flange would have something to screw to. 

We had a frozen pizza box that was made out of chip board. It worked perfectly to make the template. 

Transferred the shape to some plywood. Cut it out with a jig saw.


I cut it big and trimmed to fit. The first time I trimmed it, I cut the inside hole to small. The flange did not sit flush.







Put the wood piece in, and screwed it down.





To put the twist-set closet flange in; you first have to hold it cocked and turn clock wise to get the seal to start rubbing against the side of the pipe. Once it starts catching as you turn it, you level it out. I pushed it down to rest on the wood and kept turning. Once I got it as tight as I wanted to go. I looked in my stash of screws and found some brass screws to secure it to the wood.


The wax seal I bought had a plastic funnel looking piece in it. That piece would not fit in the new flange. You can buy wax seals without the plastic piece, so I figured I did not need it. I scraped all the wax off and applied it to the commode.



Set the commode. 

Took a Chance

We have been living in this house a pretty long time. It's a pier and beam foundation. Foundations just have problems in Texas. Im not exactly sure why. Really dry and hot, then wet and cold, black clay that cracks in the summer. Three inch wide cracks in the dirt during the summer are not uncommon.

The wax seal under the toilet started leaking when we take showers.

I replaced the seal in the other restroom a few years ago. Ive only had to do it once.

Went up to HomeDepot and saw they had a rubber seal. Looked pretty good to me, not having to deal with the wax.

So, I took a chance.

It looks like a really good product, but it did not work for us. 

I think it would work well for a house with a good foundation (We are saving up for foundation repair).

The flange on our pipe is also warped as well. I probably should replace the flange, but I'm trying not to cut any holes in the floor just yet. Remodeling the bathroom is on our list, but not now. Foundation repair would be our next big expense.

Just need to stop the leak for now.

Most likely, after a foundation repair I will be replacing these seals again anyway.

It still leaks; so tomorrow morning I will head up and get a wax seal. I had a feeling it would not work for our application...

When we get around to a remodel, we will try this product again.

Skillsaw Jig

I've been needing this for a long time!

This jig will help cut a straight line using a Skillsaw.

It is simple to make, just some plywood and a 2X4. I didn't have a 2X4 so I used a 2X6.

Using a 2X6 made the jig heavier. My Skillsaw is industrial. This Skillsaw is a lot heavier than a regular Skillsaws. It really can be a pain at times, but it cuts good. 

The extra strength of a 2X6 vrs a 2X4 will probably be better support for the weight.

I wanted the jig to be 4 foot long, so that I could easily cut the width of a standard sheet of plywood.

Again, I could have used 1/2 plywood and a 2X4. I did not have 1/2 plywood and 2X4 on hand. but I did have 3/4 plywood and a 2X6. So that is what I used.

I may make a smaller lighter weight jig in the future for smaller jobs.

Do you think that candle is big enough?

Glued and screwed a 4 foot 2X6 on a 4 foot length of plywood.

I used an old candle to wax the plywood so that that saw would glide easy.

Ran the saw on both sides so I would have a fence for both sides of the saw.

Easy, and it works great!

Tested

Cut a bunch of strips that I will be using for the Christmas Train track base that I need to finish. 

What month is this? I need to get started on making Christmas Gifts.

I also cut out some plywood shelves for a project my Wife is going to be working on.

Im pretty happy at how the jig came out. Why didn't I make one of these sooner? Easy to make. Thinking of all the times I cut plywood following a line! They never came out exact. 

Taking the time to set up the jig, it cuts a very straight line and easy to square a piece of wood.

Tips

One side of the line is the piece you measured out, that you are planing on using. The other side of the line is your waste. 

Yeah Yeah, You will be using that piece as well, but we are talking about the measurement you took to draw that line.

If the piece you are keeping is larger than the waste, most likely the jig will be attached to it, and your cutting off the waste. You just put the jig right on the line and cut. Perfect size.

Here is the point of all this - If the piece you measured out is smaller than the waste piece, the jig most likely will be attached to the waste piece. If you line the jig right on the line you measured; your piece will be short by the thickness of the saw blade.

If you already cut a piece to the right size and want to use it as a template. If you line it up to the edge draw a line, or butt the jig up to the template, you will still be short the thickness of the saw blade.

I have one of those Squares with the metal ruler. That metal ruler is just about the thickness of the blade. 

In the picture you can see that I lined up the template piece of wood to the edge, stuck the ruler between the jig and the template. Lined it all up and clamped it down. You could also line the template up with the edge, add the ruler, and draw a line.

The cuts came out exactly what I wanted.

If you do not have a template, you will just need to add the thickness of the blade to your measurement, then draw the line. You could eye ball the distance from the line for the Jig, but your cuts may not be exact.

Hope you found this informative, and helpful.

Dodge 3500 Wheel Bearing/Hub Assembly - Other Side

After replacing the drivers side front wheel bearings, I drove it a few times.

I heard another noise.

Pulled the Drivers wheel off to double checked everything; looked good.

Pulled the Passenger side wheel off, and brake assembly.
Sure enough I needed to replace that side as well.



This side was not as loud as the drivers side, but at least I took a video of it. You should not hear any noise when turning it by hand.

If you wanted to read about the Drivers Side (Click Here)

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Amendment

I parked the truck, everything looked fine.

MONDAY!

Drove it to Jury Duty, and the ABS light was on the entire time.

Got home, and checked it out. I figured it was just the connector.

unconnected and connected it back.

Turned the ignition on and the ABS light was still on. Grabbed the old hub. Plugged that sensor in and the light was STILL on when I turned the ignition on.

Called around; found a place that I could check the ABS system for codes, but as I drove the truck down the drive, the light went out.

Note To Self

If there is an ABS code registered, and you repair the problem, you need to drive it to get it to reset.

That information could have saved me anguish a number of hours.